When did you walk the Camino and which route did you walk?
The Camino Francés, starting at St Jean Pied de Port, France. We have walked three times.
Did you walk solo or with someone else? Were they a friend or a relation?
I walked with my best friend and partner in life, Jerry.
When you initially started, what did you imagine the walk to be like?
I thought it would be hard and was worried that I would not be able to do it as we had had a sedentary working life, and we were both 60. I was curious as to what it would be like, but I had some very real concerns. On our first Camino, two months previously, I had pneumonia. I also caught a flu on the flight from Australia to France and was not in the best shape to start.
Halfway through, what was your primary feeling about your walk?
On the first Camino I was in pain (knees and hip) so was still worried about how I might finish it. On the second Camino I did not have the same issues so was confident I could do it. As a result, I was happy – simply happy walking, eating, sleeping.
If you came across another Pilgrim what were the first two questions you’d ask them?
I usually started with some casual chit chat such as where they were from and their name. If they looked willing to talk and if I felt it was an okay question to ask, I asked why they were doing the Camino. That usually opened the conversation up, allowing it to head into a more meaningful direction.
Did you do any training beforehand? If so, what did you do?
Yes, we walked daily. We covered a distance between five and ten kilometres. This training period lasted for about six months. Then, eight weeks before we left, we walked daily with fully loaded packs. For the first Camino because I got sick, it did not necessarily work. On the second Camino it did, and I had a better Camino for it.
What was the one thing you packed that you were glad to have with you?
Pants! No seriously, on the second Camino I took moisturiser.
What was the one thing you packed that you could have left behind?
First Camino we took too many clothes, and the wet weather gear that was too heavy. By the second Camino, we had lighter wet weather gear and by shopping at sales etc we had acquired lighter clothes. By the third Camino, we had more of the expensive light weight trekking gear, so it was even better. Gradually over time we have looked at everything we take and found lighter sometimes smaller versions. Also, on the first Camino I had a pack which was heavy (2 kg) even empty! So, I gritted my teeth and paid for a lighter weight Osprey which I really don’t regret.
Would you walk a Camino again? If yes, which route would you walk and why? If no, why not?
I love the Frances so I am sure we will walk it again. That said, we might walk either the Portuguese or the Le Puy next as it will be interesting to see another Camino route. But then when push comes to shove, I might just opt for the Frances again. The Camino is not about the destination or route it is about the process you undergo as you walk so it probably does not matter. We hope to walk next year (2024). If not then, it will have to be 2025.
Which was your favourite albergue and why?
Casa Susi because Fermin and Susi are such good hosts. The beds are singles (no bunks), food is great, shower area is big enough to turn around and lift your arms without hitting the side of a shower cubicle. It’s a lovely place to stay.
Casa Susi Albergue
If you’re open to sharing, what did you learn about yourself?
When I started out, I thought the Camino would not change me, as I felt happy with who I was and was happy in my skin. But I discovered that even though I am well into my 60s I can still take on something new, challenge myself… an adventure, if you like. That was very liberating. I found I could still grow as person and did not have to sit down, age and be a little old lady. The Camino taught me that I could live an active life, be challenged, and enjoy it. The Camino is also a chance to re-discover some core values.
When you began you walk, what was your motivation to walk the Camino? Physical, spiritual, religious, or other? (This is a question that is asked when getting your Compostela in Santiago.) What about at the end of your walk?
On our first Camino, we walked to mark Jerry’s retirement. We felt it was important to mark the change in our life. After a lifetime in the workforce Jerry was also very jaded. During the walk I saw the man I married return. It was fantastic. By the end of the walk, I realised we learnt so much about ourselves that the Camino was more than we had understood it to be.
When we returned home, we thought and talked about the Camino daily. We returned to Spain and walked it again to make sense of the experience. I am not sure we did!
We returned a third time to touch base with set of values and ideas that the community constantly re-enforces. We still have not nailed what the Camino is for us, but I think it’s the wrong question and not very important after all. Each Camino has been very different, even though it’s the same route. The meaning behind the Camino seems to grow each time we walk it. It does call us back which means we are bound to walk again.
Did you continue walking to Finisterre or Muxia?
No because I had sore knees. Once we arrived in Santiago it was time to celebrate. I feel we are bound to do it some time.
If you gave one piece of advice to someone thinking of walking the Camino, what would that be?
Just do it but do it your way. Set your own pace and don’t let the guidebook stages influence you too much. After buying good shoes, get properly fitted for a pack. Wear your shoes in before you start. Budget some nights in a private room so you get some nights where you sleep properly. Dorm sleeping is a great way to get to know other pilgrims, but if you are exhausted because of lack of sleep, you will not enjoy the company of those pilgrims!
Do you feel the Camino changed you?
Yes. I am I think much more patient. Lots of little things simply don’t bother me anymore. I and more aware of how materially comfortable I am, and I am grateful for that every day. I am even more aware that friends and family are the most important aspect of my life.
How do you feel you brought the Camino home with you?
I think about the Camino daily and try to be kinder to people I encounter. It’s not complicated I just try to be a better me.
Do you feel your Camino was a pilgrimage, or was it was more of a long-distance walk?
A pilgrimage because after three Caminos, it has influenced how I think about the world and my place in in the world.
Do you feel the Camino is for everyone? Why or why not?
It’s not for everyone because I think some people are not receptive to what the Camino has to offer. The world would be a better place if more people found a block of time to retreat from their daily life and think, but not everyone would prioritise that.
What would you like to see more, or less (other than less toilet paper) of, on the Camino? More public toilets could be built. They could separate the cyclists from the walkers. Last time we walked (2022) the cyclists had increased since the pre-Covid days. I think some people cycled thinking they would not have to be with strangers so much. Cyclists on the trail had increased about ten-fold and it was dangerous in quite a few places.
What was your favourite city on your Camino route, and why?
Burgos. The cathedral is exceptional, and I like the feel of the place. We have always had good accommodation and food there. Also, the Museum of Human Evolution houses human and hominid artefacts and remains, which makes you realise just how long people have lived on this area of earth.
If someone didn’t know what the Camino was or about, what would you tell them (in three sentences or less)?
It’s an eight-hundred-kilometre, world-heritage-listed walk across Spain, where you meet people of all nationalities. It’s a great leveller, as everybody walks or cycles and is going through the same thing. Since all you can do is walk, eat, or sleep, you have time to think and allow the Camino to change your life.
On April 15, 2018, I began my solo wander along the route known as the Camino Francés of the Camino de Santiago. The path starts in St. Jean Pied de Port in France, and ends in Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
It took me 45 days to walk 740km. I confess, I skipped some sections because of mental and/or physical reasons. In my mind, in my heart, I walked the distance. I walked my Camino.
WHY I Walked the Camino.
Let’s face it, walking between fifteen to twenty-five kilometres a day (more or less), with everything you need for the Camino journey strapped to your back, is a little nuts. Naturally, people are curious about why someone would deliberately volunteer to undertake such self-abuse. It’s a legitimate question and a great conversation starter as you get to know the ‘other nuts’ you’re walking with. All I can say is the Camino de Santiago is an experience and one I believe everyone should try.
How did I even hear about the Camino?
In the early 2010’s, I was living vicariously through travel bloggers who were travelling full time. I worked for a Fortune 500 company in a job I liked but didn’t love. As it happened, one of my favourite bloggers at the time decided to walk the Camino, so I followed her journey. By the time she made it to Santiago, I knew that I wanted to do walk the Camino too. I’m not sure what it was that spoke to me about her journey. I’ve revisited her posts since, and admit, I didn’t find them very compelling. It felt kind of like watching a TV show that you loved way back when, but when you see it now, you wonder how you ever wasted so much time. But whatever it was, the Camino had taken hold.
I didn’t know why back then, but I felt the Camino calling me.
There’s a power in the unknown. A power in the desire to test human endurance. And while I’m not one who finds physical challenges enticing, this was different. This was a long-distance walk. Not a marathon. Not a through-hike. This was something I felt I could do, one step at a time.
Besides, deep down, I wanted to prove to myself that I could do it.
More importantly, I needed the time and space to find out what was truly important to me. The ‘noise’ all around me was doing my head in. Life comes down to the very basics on this Camino pilgrimage: Eat. Sleep. Walk. Repeat.
You carry only what you absolutely need and nothing more. Physically and metaphorically.
It was also a time for me to tap into my own spiritual being. I am not a religious person, but I found the history of the pilgrimage fascinating. From town to town, I sought the solace of cathedrals and churches. They are ancient and beautiful, and the essence of these buildings was unlike anything I’ve experienced in the world. Maybe it was because I was more in touch with that part of myself? I could sit and be still and let the world happen around me, without any need to move or converse. I listened to my inner voice, the one that I’d buried for too long. I contemplated what brought me here and what the future should look like in the silence around me. Knowing so many others had done the same in these centuries old buildings gave me a sense of peace, and a feeling that I wasn’t alone on his journey. I’m not talking about a connection with God. as I said, I’m not religious. Rather, I’m inclined to listen to the Universe, to Mother Nature, to the opinions of friends, then come to my own conclusions.
As I made my way along the way, I learned to trust the strength of my intuition and to listen to my heart. Without the noise, the drama, the judgements of the world, I could really assess what I wanted from my life. It didn’t come in some kind of ‘ah-ha’ moment. In fact, most of what I learned didn’t come until I’d walked the Camino a second time. But I arrived in Santiago in 2018, clearer than I’d ever been before.
There were days I didn’t believe I would make it.
There were days I wanted to keep walking, and days I wanted to quit. But I didn’t. I kept going. I lost toenails, threw out my back, and suffered through pneumonia. But I kept going. Call me the Little Blue Engine That Could.
When I reached Santiago, I walked through the last tunnel trying to ignore the bagpiper blasting his pipes. (I’m not a fan of bagpipes). The last steps of my journey had arrived. Walking into the Praza do Obraidoiro, to stand in front of the Cathedral, a pure and emotional moment washed over me. I was at once relieved and overcome with the reality of my extraordinary accomplishment. Of disbelief that I had done it, and elation that I had made it. I cried. No, that’s not true. I sobbed. I had walked across Spain. One step at a time. I may have left Saint Jean Pied de Port in France alone, but I walked into the square in Santiago with two people whom I now consider family. If it had not been for those who I walked with, I doubt I would have kept going. Not to mention those who followed my journey online. People lifted me up, kept me distracted from discomfort and pain, and helped me see the strength within me. With their help and my perseverance, I had finally made it to Santiago.
The When – And Why I Chose That Time
I decided to walk in Spring because I was eager to see the wildflowers in bloom.
I was so pleased that the views did not disappoint. As I headed to Portomarin, I counted over twenty different wildflowers within a five-kilometre distance. It was just breathtaking. I loved walking this journey so much, particularly at this time of year, that I repeated my wander the following year with my husband. Yes, I walked the Camino Francés twice, two years in a row. The next year, on the day we walked to Cruz de Ferro, it was sleeting, then snowing, but the wildflowers were in abundance. It remains as one of my favourite days of walking the Camino.
The weather was a big factor for the timing of my Camino Wander.
By leaving in early April, I could enjoy the cooler weather. But, on Day two of my 2018 Camino Wander, sleet greeted me in the Pyrenees, and I trudged through knee-deep snow on one section of the Napoleon Route. Just a reminder to be careful of what I wished for. (I wanted cool weather for the journey.)
It warmed as I strolled across Spain, but days began cool enough to wear my merino long sleeve top. At the end of the forty-five days, I walked into Santiago wearing my now infamous “Super Woman” t-shirt. In some sections, the weather was uncomfortably warm, although in reality it was only twenty-five degrees Celsius. But with the sun beating down on you, it can sometimes feel so much warmer. I’d hate to imagine what it would be like walking in hotter weather. I couldn’t cope. By the end, I had a lovely ‘farmers tan’ (and yes, I did wear sunscreen and a hat every day!).
I walked early in the Camino season when the number of pilgrims would still be low.
I didn’t want to deal with crowded trails, and I wanted to take my time. I had no interest in the ‘bed rush’ so many take part in.
Let me explain the ‘bed rush’: Many pilgrims leave very early in the morning. They dash along for twenty or thirty kilometres so they can find a bed, just as the albergues open for the day. These pilgrims don’t book accommodation ahead, and places like municipal albergues operate on a first come, first served basis. What ends up happening in busier months is that a competition takes place to get to the next destination quickly, and the so-called ‘winners’ not only claim a bed, but they have their choice of the best beds available. Because it was early in the season, I could still be spontaneous and find a bed with little trouble.
In the less populated areas, not knowing how far I wanted to walk that day, I tended to be spontaneous. Only once did I need to walk to the next village to find a bed, but that was also because it was around four in the afternoon. There were some days I booked a private albergue which tend to be smaller and with fewer beds. Sometimes I booked ahead when I needed to forward my pack on, so that the courier knew where to deliver it (more on why I sent my pack forward later). I also booked ahead during Easter week, as it’s a popular time on the Camino with the Spaniards. But in the cities, I always booked accommodation because I was booking a private room for my rest days so I could sleep soundly and rest in a quiet space.
You’ll notice I have used the word ‘wander’ a lot.
Consider me a ‘Slow Stroller’. I am a wanderer. I set out to wander the Camino. I took my time, and I savoured my journey. The ‘wandering’ state of mind helped immensely toward my mental and physical wellbeing. I got to smell the roses, figuratively and physically. It may have been the secret to my finishing the Camino. Well, that and the amazing people I wandered with. Conversations with other pilgrims can make the kilometres whiz by, and it makes the journey a hell of a lot more interesting.
The Challenges I Faced.
Walking should be simple. Put one foot in front of the other and follow the yellow arrows (or shells) that mark the way.
Easy, right?
Yes, walking IS simple. But the Camino is not like a normal day-hike, strung together day after day. It’s physically demanding. On day one, when you leave Saint Jean Pied de Port, you climb eight kilometres to get three quarters of the way up mountain to get to your first stop. From there, you can either continue over the mountain for another seventeen kilometres (with no services past that first stop) or you can stop for the day, rest, and continue onwards the following day. But getting over the mountain, is just the first challenge. Walking the entire distance, you walk over three mountain ranges.
Your body adapts after about a week, but there are still a lot of challenges ahead.
Things like: Descending on shale with cyclists whizzing by. Navigating slippery rocks and squidgy mud that can be silently hazardous. Knee deep snow if you’re walking early in the season. The threat of thunderstorms, deluges of rain, sleet, hail, or even the sun beating down on you, with no shade in sight. There are areas where you walk along the edge of busy roads. Other days, you’ll wander a path and not see another soul for miles and wonder if you’re still on the right path. There will be times where there are long distances between public toilets, especially in remote areas, and there’s always a time you really need to go. You will come across closed cafés when all you want is a hot drink to warm your hands, or a place to refill your water because you’ve run out.
But it’s not all bad.
You’ll have mornings where the dew clings to the spider webs spun overnight along the fences. Sunrises that will catch your breath they are so breathtakingly beautiful. Mornings where it’s so quiet, the only thing you can hear are the birds tweeting and the sound of your footsteps on the gravel. Empty streets in the cities as you head off to explore after a well-deserved rest day. Paddocks of wheat and barley dancing in the breeze. Locals helping when you least expect it. Cherries just ripening along the path. The smell of almond flowers, so pungent, that you will stop just to work out where that incredible scent is coming from. And best of all, deep and meaningful conversations that will keep the kilometres spinning by.
The physical challenges are one thing, but I didn’t realise how mentally challenging the endeavour could be.
I was open to the questions asked of me by those I walked with. One thing that the Camino allows for is skipping past the banter, the small talk. You may meet someone for a day and have the most profound conversation of your life. You may walk with someone for a week and feel you’ve known them forever. For all the discussions I had, two questions stood out. Was I happy as a child and now, as an adult? And, what did I want to do with the rest of my life? The latter was in the context of how short life can be. These conversations stayed with me for days, then returned to me again when I arrived in Santiago. Walking the Camino turns off the noise and allows you the time to have the feelings, the ideas, and the memories. But with all of this, it can drain you emotionally and mentally too.
What I also realised was if I spent too much time alone, my mind went dark. I wasn’t aware of this part of me before the walk. (Which makes for great novels but learning to manage the dark thoughts is another skill altogether.)
This journey can feel like a test.
At one point, I wondered how many ‘tests’ I would have to endure.
Many people told me they would have quit facing just a few of the challenges I encountered on my solo Camino Wander in 2018.
My knee buckled as I boarded the plane from England to France and I was already recovering from a twisted ankle from two weeks prior.
Navigating ankle-deep mud as I walked the Napoleon Route on day two, I banged my knees hard on rocks when I stumbled on the descent.
Party girls caused a ruckus in my hostel in Logrono all night, vomiting in the bathroom at 5 am. (Serves them right). I got up and walking twelve kilometres non-stop, early the next morning, angry, without eating and overtired. (Not good!)
I threw out my back in Burgos. I couldn’t move for three hours. After realising I was alone and needed to save myself, I crawled (almost literally) to an osteopath after the reception desk helped me find one. The osteopath got me walking and back onto the trail after resting for three days. This was the first time I sent my backpack forward.
I lost three toenails. (Losing toenails is not uncommon).
I got the flu, which turned into pneumonia. I kept walking (it must have been walking pneumonia – LOL!), determined to get Cruz de Ferro.
I had an allergic reaction to lavender while walking to El Acebo. Combine that with still recovering from pneumonia, I was forced to take a rest day, then skip a day ahead to avoid more lavender along the trail.
I stayed in a Russian Albergue that had no heat at all. I spent the night shivering, wearing every piece of clothing in my possession.
I was followed by a guy in Leon who spat out lewd remarks at me as I made my way to my hotel during siesta. I wasn’t attacked or anything. It just creeped me out.
And yet, with all that happening, I still made it to Santiago. But boy, did I learn a lot! About myself, about people, and about life.
Did the Camino Change Me?
I didn’t see it at the time. I was too busy putting one foot in front of the other. But I wondered if the Camino would change me as I walked. It wasn’t until after I left Spain that I noticed not only how it had changed me, but how much it had.
Life had more clarity.
I was calmer.
I learned what I really needed in life – and what I didn’t.
I learned what genuine friendship meant. I met some amazing people whom I am honoured to call friends. They are now my Camino family – and I don’t use the word family lightly in my life.
I let go of some of the emotional burdens I’d been holding on to for way too long.
I realised what I wanted to do with my work life. My travel blogging days were ending by then (yes, I’d left my corporate life to become a travel blogger) and, after my second Camino Wander in 2019, I saw with more clarity that it was time to pivot. It was time to write the book I’d always wanted to write.
In the end, I realised who I was and what I was made of.
“As Frankie said, I did it My Way.”
PS: Special thanks to Bon Jovi for their epic anthem ‘It’s my Life’. That track kept me going on the tough days
Many who’ve walked the Camino de Santiago, or plan to walk the Camino, create a playlist for their wander. I was no different. I created a playlist before I started my solo wander in 2018. (I still have it to this day.)
Why I made a playlist
I wasn’t sure if I would use the playlist while I was walking, but I wanted inspirational music for those days that would be more challenging. In ‘training’ for the Camino, I often found tackling hills made me want to quit. Music helped with that. It kept me distracted. In fact, Justin Timberlake’s ‘Sexy Back’ has managed to get my ass up a number of hills. And if there is a stretch of nothingness, I tend to get bored quickly, so music helps there too.
Did I listen to the playlist?
Funnily enough, I listened to my playlist once. Yep, once.
I used it on a day when I was walking alone. It was hot. I still had eight kilometres to go before I reached my destination and I would have quit earlier, but my backpack had been sent forward that day. I had to walk the extra miles. I needed inspiration. So, I pulled out my phone with my Camino Playlist and hit shuffle. One song came on and it was enough to get me walking. Of all the songs on that playlist, it was the one I needed to hear that day. Maybe it was the Universe telling me something. But I listened to that one song and then turned off the music. Since no one was around, I sang that song at the top of my lungs and not only did my pace improve, but so did my attitude.
What song inspired me most?
What was the song? Bon Jovi’s ‘It’s My Life’. It continues to be a song that kicks me in the ass when I need the nudge.
When I was writing The Decisions We Make, I decided that the two main characters needed to be massive Bon Jovi fans (enough to get an album tattoo for their thirtieth birthdays), and this song in particular needed to be an inspirational nudge for one of them.
There are so many lists of what to pack for the Camino. Blog posts about what to leave out. Facebook comments about products what people swear by. Everyone has an opinion. I guess I’m no different.
If you’ve read Camino Wandering, you’ll know that there’s a whole discussion about what to pack between the characters Pam, Georgina, and Aubrey. It seems (on the surface) that Aubrey was the only one who packed correctly.
How do I know about all this? Because I walked the Camino de Santiago solo in 2018, and again with my husband in 2019. Now, as I contemplate another Camino novel, my head is deep in the logistics. Who am I kidding? I constantly think about the Camino and when I can walk next. I am, as my husband calls me, a Camino Tragic. And I’m okay with that!
And so, I give you my (non-fiction) opinion on what to pack.
When packing for the Camino, it comes down to what you NEED.
What do you need daily? This is not the time to pack for ‘just in case’ or even the “I want to have…” scenario. When you walk eight hundred kilometres, you want only what you need with you. Everything else is just weight. Eight hundred kilometres is a long way to carry something you may or may not use. Every single thing is there to be used and often. The ONLY exception is wet weather gear.
After my first Camino, when I walked from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela, in 2018, I weighed my backpack before I started walking. It weighed about eight and a half kilograms. Before water. Over two kilograms of that was my backpack, which was an important lesson when I walked the second time in 2019. (I found a MUCH lighter backpack for the 2019 Camino!)
Here’s the interesting thing: By the time I arrived in Santiago de Compostela on my first Camino, my backpack was down to seven kilograms. One and a half kilos may not sound very much, but believe me, that weight makes an enormous difference.
A bunch of things came out of my backpack by the time I got to Pamplona, sixty-five kilometres into my Camino wander. They were things I thought I would need and didn’t:
An extra fleece jumper (sweater). I’d heard it was cold over the Pyrenees. It was, but I was also walking over a mountain range and I forgot you sweat when you do that.
I had additional beanie, not realizing that I had a buff and a wool beanie in my pack already.
I had extra foot protection that I threw out. I had the equivalent of a small pharmacy, not realising there are Farmacias all the way along the Camino. From Pamplona onwards, I bought only what I needed for a few days. By then, I had worked out that bandaids, Vaseline and Compeed, where all I needed, along with enough socks!
The challenges of preparing as a curvaceous hiker.
At the beginning of that first Camino, I was between a size 16-18. That is just a little larger than the ‘average’ size in today’s world. I struggled to find the gear I needed for a long-distance walk. Apparently, clothiers believe that women who need ‘work out gear’ are all ‘gym junkies’ and wear a size 10 – or less, especially in Australia.
I was appalled at the limited options for pants and waterproof gear. For my first Camino, I wore an ill-fitted men’s Goretex jacket because it was the only thing I could find. It swam on me everywhere except my hips. There it hugged me tighter than a long-lost relative. For my second Camino, I found a women’s lightweight windbreaker and invested in a poncho. Combined, they were lighter than the Gortex, and kept me drier.
Wear what’s comfortable.
I determined quickly that because you are walking eight hundred kilometres doesn’t mean you have to wear lycra, spandex or polyester. What you need is to be comfortable and wear lightweight clothing. Find something that washes well and dries fast.
Merino is great for that. So is, despite what people will say, lightweight cotton. If you’re using strong deodorant and not walking at the speed of sound, cotton is fine as long as it doesn’t chafe you and it dries quickly. Many of the albergues have dryers too.
Here is the overall packing list for plus size women (walking in spring).
(I go into detail below):
Backpack
Sleeping bag or Rumpl
Pillowcase
Trekking Poles – bought in France.
Refillable Water bottle – 750 ml
Hiking shoes
Flip-flops/sandals
3 pair of merino socks + 2 liner socks
1 pair lightweight yoga pants–full length.
1 pair of hiking leggings
1 pair Columbia Saturday Pants
1 long sleeve Merino shirt
2 short sleeve t-shirts
A lightweight jacket
2 sports bras
3 pair of underwear
1 Poncho – I bought mine in Saint Jean Pied de Port. It fits over my backpack.
1 pair of gloves. Cheap, lightweight but warm.
1 Beanie
1 Wide-brimmed Hat. Mine is a Columbia brand.
1 Merino Buff
Sunglasses
Eye glasses (if applicable)
Travel clothesline and a handful of pegs.
Safety pins
A needle with a little thread.
Lightweight, quick drying towel or a large scarf.
Ziplock bags.
A stack of toilet paper, a ziplock bag to store it in, and doggie bags.
Tissues. 2 travel size packs.
A lightweight journal and two pens.
Glue stick
Phone + Charger with European plug, Sim Card for the phone.
Small headlamp.
Medications -Obviously, take anything you need to take for your health.
Vaseline. Tape. Compeed. Enough for a week.
Cold medication. Enough for a week.
Ibuprofen. Enough for a week.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Cream. Travel size.
Tiger Balm or a cream for sore muscles.
Sunscreen. Travel Size.
Silicone Ear Plugs ( in a case).
Manual toothbrush and travel size toothpaste.
Travel size shampoo/body wash.
Strong Deodorant
Moisturiser for legs, hands, and face. Travel Size.
Nail Clippers. Small.
Chapstick.
A waterproof bag to take your things into the shower with you.
A rock or stone from home, holding your burdens.
Passport
Credential + Shell
Cash
Let’s Get into the Details:
What Backpack Do I Recommend?
I used a Mountain Designs backpack on my solo wander. It was too heavy. I did a lot of research and tried a lot of backpacks, but when you have boobs and hips, it makes things challenging, and options are limited.
For my second Camino, I went with the Aarn backpack. It was comfortable, and it moved with me, which was amazing. The great thing about Aarn is the balance bags, but again, as a woman with curves, they don’t work for me. I can’t see my feet. They stood out too far. But the backpack itself was comfortable and fit everything I need (below) easily.
No matter what backpack you use, go to an outdoor store and get it fitted to you – professionally. This made a world a difference for me. Have them load it with 10% of your body weight when you’re testing it out..
Also to note: – the other brand that works for me is Deuter. I have heard the Gregory has backpacks now for plus size hikers, but they are not available in Australia. (Osprey didn’t work for me at all. It felt like it cut into my neck.)
Make sure you have a rain cover of some sort for your backpack. A poncho is great but if you want to go with just rain jacket and pants, you need a rain cover for your backpack. Luckily with the Aarn backpack, I didn’t need one as it’s already waterproofed, but I was glad for the poncho for the extra protection.
Do You Need Trekking Poles?
Yep, you need these. They will save your knees, relieving about 20% of the pressure from them. They will save your ass on hills, both on the ascent and descent. Trust me on that. I almost fell down a mountain if it weren’t for my walking poles.
TIP: Don’t buy your walking poles before you get to France. Many airlines won’t allow you to put them into your backpack if you are carrying your backpack on. If you are beginning in Saint Jean Pied de Port, you can buy them at the shop across from the Pilgrim office. Buy rubber feet that are wide and also buy some replacements as they will wear through. These rubber feet will also stop the ‘clickety clack’ of the metal tips on pavement and could possibly save your life (from another pilgrim going postal by the noise)!
I have poles that have a cork handle, which helps absorb the sweat of your hands as you walk. Once you’ve used poles, you will find, when you don’t use them, how much they become a part of your walk. I LOVE my walking poles.
Let’s Talk Feet.
You need waterproof shoes and good quality ones with a hard toe. Some will argue this, saying trail runners are fine, but when it’s wet or muddy, you will want waterproof shoes. I like Merrell for this reason. I have a pair of MEN’s wide Merrells Moab 2 and I love them. Yep, I bought shoes for men.
The key is to find shoes that fit you. Take your time to find the right ones. Your shoes will make or break your walk. If you aren’t taking care of your feet, your Camino is over.
Your feet will ache and be tired after the first week, so gel inserts will be a godsend. You can pick up replacements in Farmacias along the Camino.
The best piece of advice I can give is to break in your shoes before you go. Make sure they are very broken in. Blisters are painful to walk with. Not only that, but if you get blisters, you can do damage to other parts of your body by over-compensating with your walk. But, if your shoes are broken in, you can determine any issues before the Camino where they can be resolved before you walk eight hundred kilometres.
You need shoes that allow your toes to wiggle. When you lace your shoes, skip the first loops. This will provide more room in the toe box.
TIP: If your heels are loose, there is a lacing technique called Lock Lace, which I found works very well. This tightens the heel, which in turn prevents blisters from friction.
Here’s a great post I found that helps with all kinds of lacing for all kinds of issues.
The question I’ve been asked a lot is should you take sandals or flip-flops? This is a personal preference but either are necessary. You need to allow your feet to breathe. Make sure that whatever you do take, you can also use in the shower. Do not go barefoot in the shower. I returned home after my second Camino with a foot fungus that took over a year to get rid of. I hate to admit it, but Croc flip flops work well for this.
Okay, now on to Socks! Take three pair of merino socks + 2 liner socks. SmartWool is a good brand. Darn Tough is another really great brand too. I’m not kidding around when I say buy merino. Don’t even bother with the cotton or wicking kind. Just suck it up and buy merino.
I took four pair of socks on my second Camino – one pair too many–but only because I lost two and a half pair on my first Camino after handing my washing over to someone else. For the last two hundred kilometres, I had one pair of socks and since they were $30/pair; I wasn’t willing to buy more for the remaining time. I just washed the same pair out at the end of each day. They were rather crunchy by the time I got to Santiago.
Next time, I’m taking three pairs. If I lose one pair, I will buy another. There are plenty of places to buy more socks along the way and the extra weight of the fourth pair isn’t worth it.
Liner socks are great if you follow the Vaseline, liner socks, merino sock technique. My foot routine for the second Camino was this: Wrap toes in tape, slather my entire feet in Vaseline, put on liner socks, then merino socks, then shoes. It took me just as long to prep my feet for the day as it did to pack up my stuff, dress, and brush my teeth. But it’s worth the time! I talked about how I did this in this very unflattering video of my daily foot routine while I was walking the Camino in 2018. The only difference between my two Camino routines was that I realised band aids come off. Tape sticks better. (And the toe guards I talk about in the video work well for descent days to avoid losing toenails!)
If the thought of Vaseline freaks you out, check out these liner socks instead. But I will tell you, you do get used to the Vaseline on your feet pretty quickly…. really.
Compeed. Make sure you pack some before you leave. Forget every other blister treatment you’ve ever heard of. Compeed is a “form-fitting film that acts like a 2nd skin, creating a barrier from water, bacteria and other impurities. It also allows the skin to breathe and lets excess moisture evaporate to aid in natural healing”.
What Else Do You Put In The Backpack?
You need three days of clothing. You could get away with two days of clothing, but there will be days when you deal with rain, and stuff won’t dry. There will be days when you will be so tired and you won’t want to deal with hand washing, knowing the albergue the following day has a washing machine and dryer. With three days, you have a little flexibility.
So what does that mean:
1 pair yoga pants–full length. I recommend these ones or something similar. You can even sleep in these if you’re modest. I love these for walking, but also for the afternoons and evenings.
A second pair of yoga pants, leggings, OR a second pair of Columbia pants.
To be honest, I have been debating on what my third option will be for my next Camino. I’m tempted to take a lightweight dress. I say this because I don’t like wearing JUST leggings and I can wear a dress in villages or cities and be very comfortable. I can still wear leggings underneath if I need to. So that, for me would be 1 pair of leggings, Columbia pants and a dress. (I’d probably add bike shorts for under the dress for the warmer days).
2 short sleeve t-shirts. This is a personal preference. I recommend merino here as well. I took a Super(wo)man t-shirt on my 2018 Camino, mainly because it kept me motivated.
A lightweight jacket. You can use this to layer over just a t-shirt, or if it’s cold, with a long sleeve, then t-shirt, then this jacket.
2 sports bras – I have a hard time finding comfortable sports bras that support me. I found these bras from Lane Bryant and found them super comfortable – and supportive.
3 pair of underwear – Make sure they are lightweight, so they dry easily. Many suggest the Exofficio-brand, but I found they didn’t allow ‘things to breathe’ and they just made me feel sweatier. I took three pairs of old cotton underwear. I figured if someone wanted to steal these off the line, they had more issues than I did!
I do recommend using compression sacks for your gear. Put your clothes in one, your meds and feet care in another, toiletries in a waterproof sack, and the rest of your gear in the last sack. Use different coloured sacks to make it easy to recognise. That way, if something leaks, the rest is protected.
Do You Need Waterproof Gear?
Yes. You need a jacket that at least is water repellent. I recommend the jacket above. You don’t need waterproof pants, but they are handy. I had all the waterproof gear for my first Camino and found I just couldn’t move easily. For my second, I wore a pair of Columbia Saturday Pants, which are water repellent pants, a windbreaker (although I wish I had this jacket) and a poncho over the top. I was dry every time, even through snow and sleet.
I bought my poncho in Saint Jean Pied de Port, one that fit over my backpack as well. You can skip this if you feel your jacket, pants and pack are fully waterproof. But I found a poncho was good for the days where water was drizzly or going over the Pyrenees, when it was great to have another layer, especially against the sleet and mist. And, it was easy to get on and off without having to also take my pack off every time.
What Other Stuff Do You Need?
A pair of gloves. They don’t have to be expensive ones, just ones that you can use with your trekking poles. You will want to keep your hands dry and protected from the wind. My gloves were a cheap pair from Uniqlo, ones I didn’t care if I lost. Luckily I still have them. These are not needed, of course, if you’re walking in the summer.
A wide-brimmed hat to protect yourself from the sun. Take this no matter what time of year you are walking! Be sure it covers your neck and has a cord on it when the wind picks up.
A Merino Buff. This was a godsend for both walks. It had many purposes. My buff kept me warm. It kept my unruly hair out of my eyes. It absorbed the sweat from my brow when it was blazing hot. And it protected me when I went through an unexpected patch of wild lavender, which I’m highly allergic too.
Travel clothesline and a handful of pegs. Take the plastic ones and expect to have them taken.
Safety pins, in case your socks or your towel don’t dry overnight. You can pin them to your pack while you walk.
A small sewing kit. You may need this for a rip in your pants, or even to treat a blister. I took a needle with a little thread and tossed it in with the safety pins.
Lightweight, quick drying towel. Buy one big enough that you can use as a screen on your (lower) bunk bed for a little privacy or to block light if you’re a light sleeper (especially if you’re by the door and people come and go to the loo through the night). Alternatively, take a large scarf that you can use as a towel, screen for your bunk, a wrap on cool nights, or head protection from the beating sun!
Plastic ziplock sandwich bags. Good for storing your credential and passport to keep both dry. Take one that is big enough for wet clothes as well because you never know…
A stack of toilet paper, some doggie refuse bags, and a ziplock bag to store it. Sometimes services are not available, and you need to use ‘a friendly tree’. Always take out what you take in.
Tissues. You will use more of these than you ever have before. They can be found at shops along the way, so take a pack or two to start. Again, dispose responsibly!
A lightweight journal and two pens. I am a writer – I need a journal. I love the journals from Muji. They are like Moleskine but better for two reasons – they are lighter and a LOT cheaper.
School stick Glue – to stick stuff into your journal!
iPhone plus charger with European plug (if applicable). Make sure the Camino apps are on your phone, your contact info. Just as importantly, don’t forget to capture the views and your new Camino Family!
Sim Card for the phone – They are hard to find before Pamplona, so pick one up in France before you begin the Camino.
Small light/headlamp. If you get up early to beat the heat, you will need a headlamp on some mornings. Just be sure to put new batteries in before you leave home!
Passport–this is obvious.
Credential–a Pilgrim credential. You need this to stay in Albergues and to get your Compostela in Santiago. You can pick one up at cathedrals, tourist and pilgrim offices. (St Jean Pied de Port and Sarria both have offices)
Camino Shell – you can get this at the same time as your credential. Tie it to your backpack to identify you as a pilgrim.
Cash–much of the Camino is cash based. Make sure you have enough euros for a week.
Somewhere to keep your valuables hidden. A money belt works well, but at least have some way tuck your cash deep into your backpack and keep it ON you at night. (This is where a pillow case comes in handy.)
What Medications Are Needed?
If you are prone to colds, take some kind some cold medication. At least a little to tide you over, until you can reach a Farmacia. There is always a case of the Camino Cold somewhere on the track.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Cream. I love this stuff. It’s great for scrapes, for bites, and for treating blisters.
Tiger Balm – amazing for sore muscles, although you will smell like an old woman in a nursing home. If that’s not for you, find something that you can use to ease tired muscles. I heard a lot of people talking about arnica cream or voltaren.TIP: At the end of the day, put your legs up against a wall and leave them there for thirty minutes. It will ease inflammation.
Whatever prescription medication you need.
Ibuprofen. Take enough for a few days to help with inflamation. If you need more, stop into to any farmacia. They will ask if you want 400 mg or 600 mg!
Sunscreen. You need sunscreen. The sun is intense. Take a travel tube and replace as needed.
Ear Plugs. Albergues are mixed sleeping quarters, and the snorers come in both sexes. There are some snorers where you feel the walls will go in and out with the snoring. Take two sets of silicone ear plugs in case you lose a pair–trust me, you don’t want to be without.
Sunglasses. You will need these. You are outside all day and the sun gets pretty intense.
What Toiletries Do You Need To Pack?
Toothbrush. Take the manual one and leave the battery operated one at home.
Travel size toothpaste. You can leave the full tube as there are plenty of places to buy toothpaste along the way.
Tongue scraper. Dental hygiene is important to me, hence the tongue scraper, but it’s SUPER lightweight, so adds minimal.
I prefer a body wash and shampoo in travel containers and use this kind of lightweight towel with it – dried overnight. You can get replacements of these easily. The bar soap needs to be dried out or contained so it doesn’t drip or go mushy.
Strong Deodorant – Strong deodorant is a must – the clinical version. Some don’t even bother with deodorant on the Camino and I feel that’s just inconsiderate to your fellow pilgrims!
Moisturiser for legs, hands, and face. You’d be amazed at how dry everything gets with the wind and elements. Just a small tube works. You can buy along the way.
Nail Clippers. Make sure your nails are clipped before you go, then buy up some cheap nail clippers at a Farmacia, when you need them later.
Chapstick. Take whatever brands work for you. You will need it. The wind will howl in some areas and the sun will dry your lips out. I also love paw-paw cream for this because you can also use it on scrapes etc.
Take a waterproof bag to carry your clothes and your valuables into the shower with you. Something you can hang. Some pilgrims recommend a small S hook as well. I find a quality drawstring bag works well or a reusable grocery bag – which you can also use for that purpose. Either way, you can use it for afternoons and evenings for your valuables, when you can leave your back pack near your bed (never on!) to wander.
Can Your Get Snacks Along The Way?
You can pick up replacement snacks at supermercados along the Camino. I packed enough snacks for a few days of walking. Many hamlets don’t have a place to replenish, so you need enough to boost your energy to get you through long days of walking.
Before you leave St. Jean Pied de Port, stop at the supermarket and get some dried fruit and nuts, and some protein bars. You will need this for three days of walking.
Make sure you have a refillable water bottle. Keep in mind that one litre of water equals one kilo, so you need to account for the weight. There are places to refill your bottle along the way (just be sure NOT to use it from a non-potable). On the days which are longer with limited services, you will need two bottles of water.
What Kind of Sleeping Solution Do You Need?
I hate sleeping bags. I find them either too hot or too constrictive and I cannot fathom the idea of the ‘mummy’ type of ways. Albergues offer a bed, usually flanked in a disposable cover. Many also offer a blanket, but of those, they are scratchy. They work great on super chilly nights over your sleeping system.
Which brings me to just that. You need a sleeping solution. Thankfully, there are thankfully other options than sleeping bags. I recommend a RUMPL lightweight down blanket.
I love my Rumpl. It can be stuffed into the bag easily and it’s lightweight enough to put over me and long enough to wrap around me.
Some pilgrims who walk in warmer weather use a silk liner.
Putting your head down on a pillow, you want to have comfort. The pillows can be scratchy. Take a pillowcase with you. You can also tuck your valuables into it at night. Just make sure the opening is to the wall.
Do you need a guidebook?
No. You really don’t need a guidebook. There are several helpful apps now. I use Wise Pilgrim, that provides all you need about the hamlets, towns and cities you will go through. It also provides distances and history of the areas you walk through. If you’d prefer the physical book, click here.
If you want a physical sheet that provides names of albergues and offers elevation information, the Pilgrim office in Saint Jean Pied de Port can provide this to you.
You NEED Travel Insurance for the Camino.
Stuff happens on the Camino. Legs are broken. Ankles are injured. It happens.
People even get lost (especially in bad weather). If you plan on walking the Napoleon Route from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles, it’s highly recommended you have travel insurance before you embark on this journey. The day I walked this route, in mid-April, way after the route was opened, NINE people were rescued off the mountain that day. Rescues don’t come cheap and those saved have to pay to be rescued. Travel insurance saves you.
I use – and continue to always use – World Nomads.
The last thing to thing pack is a rock or stone from home.
You will place this, along with all your burdens, at Cruz de Ferro.
Now I know that is a lot of information, but hopefully it will help plan your Camino. I have learned a lot after two wanders and I know when I set off again, I’ll be much better prepared. I may even take two sets of clothes, instead of three! Now that’s commitment!
If you have walked a Camino, have I missed anything (other than a can-do attitude)?
PLEASE NOTE: Affiliate links were used in this post. I do not promote anything I have not used or experienced myself or had recommended highly to me. All opinions are my own. Please follow our advice at your own risk. By clicking these links allows this website to continue running. For that, I thank you.
After walking the Camino, solo in 2018 and with my partner in 2019, I have spent a lot of time reflecting on my Camino Wanders. So much so that I wrote a novel.
My novel is not a memoir, but a fiction novel, loosely based on my own Camino Wanders (at least the environment part of the book!).
I decided to write my novel this way for a couple of reasons. Firstly, there are already so many great memoirs out there. The other reason was because my two wanders were so different from each other. A memoir would need to include both wanders and that would mean my memoir would be the size of a George R.R. Martin chunker. When it all came down to it, I wanted to write about my own experiences, but with a different twist.
I also remembered so many pilgrims talking about the movie “The Way” with Martin Sheen, a screenplay written by his son, Emilio Estevez. That movie is a work of fiction and an introduction to the Camino for many.
To me, writing a fiction is more freeing. It’s a better way to bring out the story – and the characters. Certainly better than a daily journal of “I walked here. I ate this. I felt pain here…”! Those stories have been written lots of times and besides, I posted that stuff on my travel blogging Facebook page while I was walking. (Did you know I used to be a travel blogger? You can still see my website here.)
To get to the novel stage, before I could even start writing, I had to think about my own Camino wanders. What I loved about the Camino. What I didn’t like so much. The things I will never forget. And, what I would do differently.
Those are all the things I considered when writing ‘Camino Wandering‘. So, I thought I’d share those reflections with you.
So, here goes…
4 Things I Loved About the Camino. Wait, 5 things.
The friends I met who then became my Camino Family. They made me laugh. They made the kilometres go by without notice. They made me enjoy what I was seeing, hearing, and smelling. Somedays they even helped me keep going, even when I wasn’t walking with them. What’s interesting is that many don’t know each other because they never met. I met them at different stages.
Being back to basics. Food, shelter, water, sleep. You don’t have to really worry about anything else but the basics when walking the Camino de Santiago. It’s incredibly freeing.
The scenery. Spring in Spain is magnificent. I chose this time of year for both Camino wanders, because I wanted to enjoy the wildflowers and they did not disappoint. It was breathtaking every single day.
How far I walked. It often surprised me just how far I’d walked in one day. There were days I’d look behind me at some spot in the distance and think “I was just there this morning”.
The support I received. Learning of the support I had online and at home. It was life changing for me. And believe me when I say, getting those supportive messages helped me some days to keep walking. It’s what kept me walking 800km across Spain!
4 Things I Didn’t Like So Much
Past Sarria, the vibe changed. The pilgrim community I had felt prior was not there past Sarria. It was grunts, headphones and bed runs. It saddened me that people seemed to be missing the point of the Camino. The Camino had become more of a tourist attraction. For me, it was more than a bucket list item to be checked off, or something to put on the CV. (Yes, people actually do include it on their resumés. Apparently it’s a thing for millennials in Europe.)
Having to send my pack onwards because of my back injury. I had wanted to carry my pack the entire way. Having to send it on, I lost some flexibility with where to stay, sometimes pushing myself further than what was comfortable because my backpack had been forwarded. I also learned I had too much stuff but learned in the end what I really needed.
The Cliques. By two thirds along the Camino, people had their Camino families sorted, but mine had moved on because of my slow pace. I often felt I was intruding on cliques by walking with them, or that they weren’t open to include more into their tribe. I pushed my way in when I needed company though, I have to admit. On my second wander, I found it weird that people weren’t open to walking with us because we were walking as a couple. We were very open to walking with others but people often said they didn’t want to ‘intrude’.
Lack of variety with Pilgrim meals. Pork or Chicken. I often looked for other options. Cities were great for getting a tapas fix, for example. I also figured out asking for the vegetarian was a better idea because you sometimes got salads as an option or grilled vegetables instead of dried out pork.
4 Things I Learned About Myself
My Perseverance. When there is a goal to be accomplished, I kick ass. Slow and Steady wins every time. No matter the obstacles, I learned to keep the goals small and manageable and I’ll reach the end goal. I mean, shit – I walked 800k, across Spain! Twice in two years! BOOM!
Laughter is the key. It’s the key to making the time go faster and to enjoy the journey. Even with bad Dad Jokes. Two of my Camino Angels, Jerry and Sharon told me their goal each day is to make each other laugh. I love that.
I discovered that I am interesting and funny. I just need to relax and open up. Not everyone may appreciate my sense of humour but that’s not important. That’s their loss. I appreciate my sense of humour and the joy it brings to my life.
I need private time, and I need down time, which are two very different things. Both are essential to accomplish what I need to do. This goes for all parts of my life, but for the Camino, I could not have finished the entire journey if I stayed only in dorms. By staying in private rooms with private bathrooms every three or four days, I could truly rest and sleep. I mean there are snorers in the Albergue that are seriously going for the Olympic Gold. But having that privacy too, I could rest my soul and that transcends to my entire life.
What Would I Do Differently
Send my pack forward on day 1 and 2. Send the packs on from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. It’s hard enough adjusting to the wander physically that it helps ease you into it.
Stay in private rooms every three days. Give myself the opportunity to rest properly, to sleep deeply and to reflect.
Plan out my days. Stay in the places that stood out in my mind from both wanders:
Santo Domingo de la Calzada – stay in a parador.
Trabadelo – Casa Susi’s. It’s a must stay. Susi and Fermin will treat you like family.
OCoto – Casa de Los Somoza. Nice hotel to regroup.
Burgos – rest day for 2-3 days.
Pamplona for the tapas!
Zariquiegui – small but great to stay before the Alto de Perdon
Zabaldika – Ring the bell. Hear the blessing in your heart.
Larrasoana. Stay off ‘stage’. This was a lovely spot to do that.
Roncesvalles – first timers should stay in the Monastery. The next wander, stay in the hotel. Eat in the hotel, NOT the restaurants the Monastery assigns you to. Oh, and if you don’t like fish staring at you before you cut into it, don’t order the fish.
Samos – it’s worth the detour.
Pack less and use a lighter backpack.
Get a data plan for the entire journey.
Learn Spanish. More than what I already know.
Order vegetarian meals more often as Pilgrim meals.
Have you walked the Camino? What did you discover in your reflections?
PLEASE NOTE: Affiliate links were used in this post. I do not promote anything I have not used or experienced myself or had recommended highly to me. All opinions are my own. Please follow our advice at your own risk. By clicking these links allows this website to continue running. For that, I thank you.
Did you know that I used to be a travel blogger? Before I became a fiction writer, I travelled the world and blogged about my experiences. Well, I wrote fiction at the same time, but my primary focus back then was travel blogging. I housesat to keep costs down and travelled on a very strict budget. It’s one reason I loved walking the Camino.
I still have the website, although I don’t contribute to it much anymore.
One of the posts I wrote was about the realities of walking the Camino. I thought it would be fun to share it here, since it ties in with Camino Wandering.
As I walked the Camino in 2018, I read a post titled “20 Truths About Walking The Camino”. That post described how my life was at that very moment. I laughed. Hard. As I walked, I thought about what I would add or change to that list.
After walking a second Camino in 2019, I am created my own list. Here’s my 25 Realities of Walking the Camino de Santiago (Francés route).
The long Camino wander – ack!
Now I’ve had time to reflect on my own wander, my solo Camino walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago, I thought I would write my own post of what I see as the realities of walking the Camino.
25 Realities of Walking the Camino
The movie, ’The Way’, will be a topic of conversation. Every. Single. Day. Every pilgrim will have watched it at least once.
Café con Leche and Vino Tinto become crucial in your Spanish vocabulary as it will be what keeps you functioning.
Ear plugs become a standard part of your nightly routine. You will never know snoring like you will on the Camino.
You will experience body aches and pains like never before. Your body will hurt in places you never even knew existed.
You will disregard Brierley’s ‘Stages’ altogether if you are a slow stroller. What kind of crack he was smoking when he wrote this book? You will find The Wise Pilgrim app far more valuable.
‘Vitamin I’ is a phrase you will hear on the Camino. Simply, it is Ibuprofen. It is also referred to as ‘Camino Candy’ or ‘Camino Lollies’ as they are popped so frequently. (Not recommended for too long, btw. Trust me, I walked my Camino with a doctor who told me some horror stories of people overusing Ibuprofen!)
Your feet will become your new obsession. It will take you longer in the morning to dress your feet than it will to brush your teeth AND dress your body. You will learn what works for your feet and what doesn’t. When you stop and take your shoes off, pilgrims will stop and ask if you are okay, or ‘how are your feet?’. Talking blisters over dinner is considered “normal conversation.”
You’ll grow to hate walking. As you hobble into the Albergue at the end of a long day, you will swear up and down that you’re done and dusted. You’ll be ready to quit just to end the pain, only to get up and do it all over again the next morning.
You will get tired of the Pilgrim menu and seek out anything else and be happy to break the budget for it.
You will also tire of Boccadillas or anything that includes ham.
Your favourite meal of the day will become your second breakfast. Yes, it will be a thing. You will look forward to bacon and eggs or tortilla de patate, or even a chocolate croissant, which you will justify because you have already walked 8km.
You will be excited by red plastic chairs that will be the tell-tale sign of a bar being open.
You will crave clean sheets, towels, and a private bathroom and consider those things absolute luxuries.
You will start grabbing extra sheets of toilet paper from Albergues or bars. You will even start carrying tissues into toilets, ‘just in case’.
You will buy more tissues than you’ve ever thought possible. You nose will run constantly, especially on those early mornings.
Your pilgrim credential will become just as important to you as your passport and, after a while, it will be your badge of honour. Once you complete your Camino, it will be the document that will mean more to you than the Compostela you receive in Santiago.
You will think about sending your pack forward and may even find, after you do it once, why you didn’t do it sooner!
Buen Camino will roll off your tongue like hello does in your native language. After Sarria, you will have your Buen Camino greetings ignored and you may find yourself repeating the greeting more loudly, just so people respond to it.
Therapy might be required afterwards because the “real” world seems too bizarre. You’ll definitely cling to your Camino family after the Camino ends, because, suddenly, they are the only people who understand you.
You will wonder if you will keep the weight off after the Camino ends.
When you reach Santiago, you will have challenging time stopping your ‘pilgrim diet’, especially when you continue to eat with your Camino family.
You will get mad if people at home imply this is a vacation. This is the last thing from a vacation.
You really start to question why those who walk from Sarria to Santiago receive the same credential as those who walked the fill Camino, the entire 800km route. It’s not up to me to judge, I know, it’s not the Camino way, but somehow it doesn’t seem quite right.
You wonder, when standing in line in the Santiago Pilgrim Office, why those who walked from St. Jean Pied de Port (if not further!) don’t have a separate line from the rest, to receive their credential. Our feet seriously are tired!
You will meet people who you would not normally meet in daily life and be amazed every day at their stories. You will realise quickly that this is why you walked the Camino, to find people who enrich your lives in ways you never thought possible.
The long Camino wander – Ha! I’ve got this!
If you like it, feel free to share it on social media!
I’ve been getting questions, about my random posts on social media lately. I am talking about my “Virtual Camino” and talking weirdly about the characters from my book, Camino Wandering.
Let me explain what it’s about…
My novel, Camino Wandering, is a fictional tale of three women, Aubrey, Pam and Georgina, who walk the Camino de Santiago together. Along the way, they meet other colourful characters who join their Camino Family. These are the characters I’m talking about in my videos and on various posts.
In my real life, I have walked the Camino. Twice, actually. Once in 2018 (solo) and again (with my husband) in 2019. I decided not to write a memoir, but a fiction novel. There was another story I wanted to tell, other than my own. Now, in 2021, as much as I would LOVE to be in Spain, walking the Camino this year, there’s a worldwide pandemic preventing me (and many others) from doing that. PLUS, I have a book to promote. It’s hard to do either of these things currently.
Promoting my book is one thing. I can do that through advertising, etc, but my book is not your usual, run of the mill, women’s fiction either. It tends to lend itself to a certain audience. Finding that audience is easy, but you don’t want to over saturate things either. You tend to get kicked out of groups and discussions when you do that. Besides, it’s spammy.
So what to do? I had to think outside of the box, as they say.
My goal is to bring the Camino experience to others.
“People who have experienced the Camino will enjoy all the memories and people who have not will understand all the ups and downs a Pilgrim goes through.”
My book allows people to experience the Camino for themselves. It’s just… getting it to the right people continues to be a challenge and, unless I want to spend $5k a week on Facebook Ads (um, no thanks), I had to get creative.
Then, a fellow Tasmanian Camino Tragic (as my husband calls me) told me about an endeavour he and his Camino Family have undertaken. They are pledging 75% of their net income from the Camino For Good app to support albergues along the Camino who have been hit hard by COVID travel restrictions. As of May 2021, they have been able to provide of $70,000 USD in relief funds to Albergues! This will not only keep the Camino spirit alive but will give back to the albergues (or hostels) who are doing it tough.
I LOVE this – everything about it – and I wanted to help with their efforts.
Originally, I thought about donating, but I wanted to do more than that. I wanted to share what they were doing, and I knew I could do that through my social media outlets. Sure, I was still contributing financially by signing up for Camino For Good. 75% of my joining fee goes to those aforementioned albergues. I did think about donating a portion of my book profits, but I knew, realistically, it would only be pennies. (Remember, I’m an author. Unlike those big names, I don’t make a lot from book sales. And, if I’m completely blunt here, I need food on my table too. Every book sale is celebrated at this point.)
Still, I wanted to do something.
Then it hit me. I can give back by living this experience through my book.
Doing this does two things: It helps Camino for Good by citing them on my posts AND it helps promote my book by bringing the characters into my own walking experience.
And that brings me back to my whacky posts about Virtual Caminos and talking weirdly about the characters from my novel, Camino Wandering. I am walking the distance of the Frances Route (810km) in my local area, but I talk about the book as if we were walking the actual Camino together. (Or at least give hints about what’s in the book during those stages. Because, you know, I’m trying to entice people to buy the book themselves to find out MORE.)
My Real Life in Tasmania. Photos I share on my daily wanders.
By doing it this way, I share the beautiful trails in my area and I give you some insight into who I am and what my life is like. You know, when I share things like doing face plants, trying to get off a kneeling chair at my desk. Or of my neighbour’s sheep, a ram I’ve nicknamed Honda (because, you know, he’s a lamb-mower) poking his tongue out.
My crackpot social media posts combine it all: I share the characters from Camino Wandering, telling a little about what’s happening at that stage in the book, while walking to clear my fog brain, and I am still able to give back to those albergues I hope to stay with in the future!
I know it’s bumpy. I’m awkward at making videos. Like Georgina in Camino Wandering, I can take a nice photo, but I am not photogenic myself. Nor do I enjoy being in front of the camera. But I am putting it out there and that’s all you can do, right?
Want to do this virtually with me?
Camino For Good – So you can track your progress and give to the albergues too!
Camino Wandering – Buy the book so you can read along as you go through each stage.
Join my social media pages – so you can laugh at my videos, but also see photos from my area AND from my personal Camino wanders.
When doing some research about Camino authors, I was surprised to discover the the majority of Camino books are written by men. Someone once said to me that these Camino books are focused on food and their physical woes (usually their feet) – and little else. I laughed at that… until I actually realised it was fairly accurate.
Now I’m not ‘male bashing’ here. Not at all. I think it’s great that they’ve written a book and have it out there in the world. That’s no small feat. But I’d like to support the women authors here. Because, it seems, we are the minority in the Camino Author world.
As an Indie author, I know it’s REALLY hard to get the word out about your book. I have heard that traditional publishing houses don’t do a lot of marketing either, unless you’re one of the Top 10 on their list.
So, I’m sharing this list as an effort to help ALL the women on this list. It’s time we got the word out more abundantly about our books! And I’m all about women supporting women – just read Camino Wandering as an example! I’m doing what Pam, Georgina or Aubrey would do for each other – lift each other up – and share this list of WOMEN authors of other Camino books.
Most books on this list are memoirs. Others, like mine (Camino Wandering), are fiction based on an actual experience. Then there are others that remind us of the Camino – cookbooks, guidebooks, meditation. Enjoy!
Here is the list:
If you’ve read any one of the books on this list and recommend it, please leave that recommendation link (Amazon or Goodreads) in the comments below too.
NOTE: If you are a female author of a book about the Camino de Santiago, no matter what the type of book it is, and you are NOT on this list, please leave a comment below with the title of the book and your author name. I’ll be sure to refresh the list periodically. Until then, your book will remain in the comments.
